The Royal Enclosure of Hampi
The Kingdom of Vijayanagara which thrived from 1336-1646 CE was the home of ancient temples and ruins of regal buildings. Stretching over 4 dynasties ( Sangama, Saluva, Tuluva, Aravidu), the citadel of the Kingdom was originally known as Vidyanagara. At the heart of modern-day Hampi, lies the Royal enclosure.
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| The octagonal bath (pc: Rajni) |
The octagonal bath which closely resembles a Turkish Hamam was built specifically for the members of the Royal family. It consists of an octagonal mandapa with a pool in the centre. In the middle of the pool, there is an elevated structure made up of marble, to store soap and other toiletries. A ceiling clad with diamonds and precious stones is said to have existed.
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| Queen's bath |
The Queens’s bath was a more luxurious private bath built exclusively for the women of the royal family. It is an open bath with a water filtering system right outside. The bath consists of domes on 4 sides and a pool at the centre.
There was also a provision for shower. Music used to be
played for the entertainment of the women from the balconies. When I closed my
eyes, I could picture the serene music, the rejuvenating bath and the strong
fragrance of sandalwood and turmeric.
The Mahanavami Dibba is a royal enclosure uniquely built for
celebrating Dusshera. It consists of the King’s pedestal and a vast parading
ground. It is said that during Dusshera, the heavy monolithic doors used to be
pulled open by the elephants and everyone dressed in their best attire used to
gather at the mandapa, to witness the yearly parade. It was burnt to ashes when
the Bahamani Sultanate destroyed Hampi. As I entered through the gates, which
is now covered with wild growth I could visualize how colourful and grand the
festivities would have been!
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| Monolithic door |
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| Stage of the Mahanavami Dibba |
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| The Mahanavami Dibba |
I also stumbled upon an intricately crafted step-well based on geometric patterns. It is said that the stone used to construct this well was procured from Warangal. The well was fed with water from the Kamalapura Lake through the brilliant aqueduct system.
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| Aqueduct system |
A structure that surprised me the most was the underground meeting room. In the basement of Vishnu temple, this room was used for exchanging highly classified information. Although the ceiling no longer exist, entering and exiting this room through the steep rock-cut stairs is an experience altogether. Imagine being a spy for the King of Vijayanagara in the 16th century, arriving at this secret room stealthy to inform the higher authorities about an incoming danger. Ah, the thrill and excitement!
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| Underground secret room |
A little further from the Mahanavami Dibba exists the Zenana enclosure. King Krishna Deva Raya’s wives Queen Tirumala Devi and Queen Chinna Devi had their respective palaces.
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| Lotus Mahal |
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| Elephant's Stable |
Now close your eyes and imagine being part of the royal family of Vijayanagara, arriving royally on your elephant, staying in the cool Lotus Mahal during the summers and celebrating the festival of Dusshera with joy and splendour!
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| Mahout's quarters |
Walking away from the ruins, I could only picture the sheer pain
and angst of destruction. The mighty war with the Bahamani Sultanate not only
destroyed the kingdom but also the lives of the inhabitants. Their houses were
burnt to the ground and their livelihood was disrupted.
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| Lotus Mahal |
The ruins of Hampi stand tall with pride
For nothing can erase its presence
Or it’s fertile existence
From the leaves of history, rich and wide!
If you would like to read about Hampi, I highly recommend ‘A Forgotten Empire’ by Robert Sewell.
Click here to read part I and part III.
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