Reliving History through Travel

 Have you ever wondered about the history of the places that you visit?

This question intrigues me and I do think that reading, internalizing and viewing the place for its glory makes your trip more fulfilling and wholesome. This has led me to dwell on the history of different places, no matter how big or small.

Rabdentse Ruins (PC: Rajni)

On my journey to Pelling (Sikkim), I decided to visit the Rabdentse Ruins. A short steep trek up the hills took me to the ruins. Established by Tensung Namgyal, the second Chogyal, Rabdentse was the capital of the Kingdom of Sikkim from 1670 to 1814. It was attacked and destroyed by the Gorkhas. The remains of the palace, some chortens and a monastery exist today. The Rabdentse ruins are part of the Buddhist pilgrimage starting with Dubdi Monastery at Yoksum, followed by Norbugang Chorten, Tashiding Monastery, Pemayangtse Monastery, Sanga Choeling Monastery, and the Khecheopalri Lake.

Chortens 

 

As I entered this old capital, I couldn’t help but imagine the strong north-eastern forces of India. The once royal palace looked at me with a stoic glance. Seated regally on a cliff, the ruins face the majestic Kanchenjunga. When the sun’s rays hit those white mountains, the bright light falls on the ruins, as if it is blessing their existence. The voices of those brave and mighty echoed through the lichen filled pathways.

The ruins of the palace

The history of Northeast India has been long ignored. Visiting this place, learning about the Chogyals and walking by the decaying walls highlighted the very essence of time, the entity that once lost can never return.

The St. John’s Church of Wilderness in Mcleodganj (Himachal Pradesh), presented a form of history which is neither popular nor sensationalized. This quaint church was built in 1852 by the British. I sat there, absorbing all the tranquillity and serenity. As I made my way out, I came across a graveyard. 

St. John's Church of Wilderness

They were of British families from the 19^th century. Graves of the once old and young lie in a secluded Church, high up the hills. Most of the men buried down there were part of the army, in service to The Crown. I’m grateful to have been exposed to such sensitive and personal history.

These people who served in India probably never got to return home. Their descendants would hardly know about the graves of their ancestors. While leaving, I had a deep longing to stay in the wilderness, amidst this kingdom of solitude.

When I visited Bhaja Caves in the vicinity of Lonavala (Maharashtra), I was blown away by the beauty of this Buddhist structure. On a hilltop, it is a small cluster of Buddhist Caves built by the Hinayana sect. Although similar to the popular Karla caves in style and architecture, it is untouched by the perils of casual tourism. 

Bhaja caves 

The work on these Caves started in the 2nd century BC and finished in the 2nd century AD. It is so splendid that one is immediately transported back in time, to the world of spiritual advancements in Buddhism. Each rock-cut chamber housed either a monk or a stupa. 

Stupas at Bhaja Caves

These stupas were carved from the rock and consisted of the relics of the monks that once lived there. The rooms were self-sufficient with an indentation to store water and oil lamps. I moved from floor to floor assimilating the essence of the monastery. It is one of those places where one can sit and meditate peacefully.

St. Thomas Cathedral, Mumbai

Big cities have very intricate history and intertwined tales. With time, some of the stories are forever lost. My uncle Ramesh Hariharan, volunteers for Khakhi by conducting heritage walks around Mumbai’s Fort area. This wasn’t merely a walk, it was a journey through time!

The seven islands of Bombay were initially in the hands of the Portuguese. In 1661, when Princess Catherine Briganza married King Charles II, these islands were handed over as dowry to England. After acquiring them, King Charles leased the islands to the East India Company in 1668 for 10 pounds per annum.

The city was further developed and a Fort was built, separating the European side from the Indian side. This fort had 3 doors. One of them was right in front of, St. Thomas Cathedral. The foundation stone was laid in 1676 by the Governor of Bombay, Gerald Aungier. After his death, the building site lay desolate until Mr Cobbe came along. The church finally opened its doors to the public on Christmas Day, 1718.

Functional even today, the walls of the church tell tales of those who laid their lives to World Wars. The area around the church was named after the gate installed right in front of it. Hence, the name “Church-gate”, came into existence. Although, neither the fort nor the gate remains, the name still sticks.  If you are travelling to Mumbai and want to relive a slice of history, I urge you to contact Khaki (Not sponsored) and partake in this wonderful heritage walk. You will indeed witness, the inception of Mumbai into the great city it is today!

The Church Gate

Every place has a story. If you imagine a place to be a beautiful canvas painting, with bursts of blue, red and grey, the people and events are tiny specs of white sprinkled all over it. When the wheel of time spins and civilizations are destroyed, it is these stories that keep them alive. These stories lingering in the minds of every new generation gives birth to the past glory that will never return.